Tre Biccheri / DW 94 / JS 94 / Falstaff 93 pts
2017 vintage rated Three Red Glasses – Gambero Rosso – Absolutely superb. This award is only given out to 305 out of 18000 wines tasted annually. Created by Count Loredan as a “Venegazzù Superiore” in the “Riserva della Casa”, this wine was often used for special occasions in the city of Venice. Indeed, during the 1960s, this wine numbered many heads of state among its admirers – a fact which, of course, has led to the name it bears: ‘Head of State’. Our Capo di Stato starts life in a selection of grapes, in particular those from an old vineyard planted in 1946 and known fondly as “the 100 Plants”. This vineyard is located in Venegazzù (40 km north of Venice in the province of Treviso), where the Montello terroir confers its truly unique character. The grape varieties are: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec from old clones. The wine is always original, profound, with a warm colour, intense boquet and rich aromas of soft fruits and spices. Through its body and fabric and its sweet tannins, it persuades the palate of an infinite silkiness. This wine has, then, a strong personality: never flattened, never fitting into the humdrum variations of fruit combed with oak: it will always express itself with aromatic originality, bringing a fighting spirit to its tasting.
JS: There’s a concentrated bead of clean blackcurrants and dark cherries running through this, from start to finish. Subtle notes of violets, dried flowers and herbs add complexity. Medium-bodied with a compact but graceful feel. The tannins are very fine and sinking into the wine. Long finish. Not a powerful wine, but very attractive for the intensity and, above all, finesse.
Falstaff : Powerful, bright ruby with a fine garnet shimmer. Opens with notes of leather and liquorice, plus some pepper, then lots of plum and cassis. Spice also characterises the wine on the palate, opens with fine berry fruit, then lots of grippy tannin, still seems a little rough on the final, lots of potential.