WA 93+ pts
A classy effort, the 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a magnificent wine that showcases the qualities and pretty nuances of the elegant vintage. The bouquet is immensely perfumed with delicate tones of crushed mineral, red rose, dried cherry, creme de cassis, Indian spice and cured meat. It’s a streamlined expression that is still muted at this young stage. Give it more time to complete its evolutionary course. Drink 2015-2028.
Anyone who frequented Verona’s famed Bottega del Vino wine bar in its glory days will remember the Bertani “altar” set up in the downstairs cellar. Carefully erected under its own pool of light, the shrine consisted of important vintages arranged into a giant pyramid with magnum-sized wooden cases at the base. Small church candles flickered at the perimeter. That altar to a single brand, so revered and holy to the Veronesi, always comes to mind when I taste Bertani’s wines. This cherished symbol of Valpolicella is a beacon for those who appreciate the storied winemaking customs of the region. In 2011, Bertani was purchased by Tenimenti Angelini (a branch of the Angelini Group pharmaceutical firm). Despite the new ownership, Bertani remains one of the most consistent producers of traditional Amarone.