Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2016

VM: Dusty earth gives way to dried roses, incense, hints of cedar, sage, currants and black cherries in a display that makes the 2016 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino a very special experience. It’s nuanced and perfumed from start to finish, boasting silky textures contrasted by tart berries and minerals, but with sweet tannins that frame the expression perfectly. Its inner sweetness is balanced by bright acids, creating an almost-juicy sensation, right up until the moment you realize that your palate is aching with youthful tension. There’s so much going on and much more to come, making me wonder what the Poggio al Vento might offer in the 2016 vintage. For now, that doesn’t even matter, because the 2015 Col d’Orcia impresses on nearly every level. Eric Guido
WS: An earthy, meaty version, sporting black cherry, plum, raw beef, iron and bouillon aromas and flavors. The fruit element intensifies on the palate, playing out on a long finish that is balanced and fresh, showing dusty tannins. Best from 2024 through 2043.
WA: The Col d’Orcia 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a widely available wine with an ample production of 240,000 bottles. It is also a landmark wine in Montalcino, although it tends to be very vintage-sensitive, with some releases showing much better than others. In the case of the twofold 2015 and 2016 powerhouse vintages, I like both wines about the same. This cooler vintage shows dark fruit and spice, while there’s an extra layer of leather or cigar ash at the back. This wine is made with organic fruit. It displays a mid-weight mouthfeel with tight tannins and lively acidity, the kind that will cut through your favourite steak dinner.